Well, what a fucking mission. First off, when I bought the helmet I asked for the communication system with it.  Of course it arrived as two separate packages.

“No, No. Don’t worry,” the salesman said, “It’s easy to install.”

I should have known he was lying. His lips were moving.  Anyway, I found exactly *ONE* page on the internet with directions on how to install the communication system into the helmet.  Come to think of it, there’s a REASON BMW won’t sell the communication system separately to anyone.  It’s supposed to be installed by a BMW dealer.  Except that the dealer in Qatar is totally fucking useless.

So tonight I installed it myself.  The instructions I worked off can be found here.  Many thanks to James Goodchild for posting it originally.  I’m goin go duplicate the instructions here and then add my own little notes to it.  If I ever do this again, I will take photos and post them too.  So here goes:

1. Start by removing the visor. Open the visor and push the small black tab on each side down while sliding the visor towards the front of the helmet. Set aside in a safe place.
2. Remove the inner liner. There is a snap at the back and 3 tabs at the front.
3. Remove the left cheek pad. There are 3 snaps that hold it in place. You will need to pull the chin straps through. Use a camera to photograph how the chin straps fit through the cheek pads. Note especially the small loop strap that feeds to the back of the helmet on each side which goes around the chin straps. This strap goes in a custom sleeve on the cheek pads. Take a small piece of masking tape and write left cheek pad on it. Stick it to the pad and set it aside [I had to remove the buckle from the strap to get it through the small loop strap]. Repeat the process for the right cheek pad. [No need to remove the plastic ratchet strap on this side]
4. At the front of the helmet on the right side you will see 3 torx screws. Remove them. Note: the one screw is near the bottom of the helmet and can be hard to find [You actually have to look between the edge of the helmet and the styrofoam to se it]. Set the screws aside. Repeat for the left side.
5. Pull the left Styrofoam cheek backer out. You may have to wiggle it out of the black plastic at the front of the helmet. DON’T FORCE ANYTHING. It will come out. Note that the Styrofoam has a milled edge so that it stays under the back section of the helmet. DON’T pry the Styrofoam up – pull it toward the front of the helmet. Once out, mark left side on the masking tape and stick it to the Styrofoam. Repeat the process for the right side.
6. When the Styrofoam is removed, you will see that along both sides of the back piece of Styrofoam are two recesses on the left and right side. This is where the battery pack and circuit board will be installed.
7. Open the BMW Bluetooth kit and the battery pack kit. Lay out the parts and study them. Try to get a feel for how they will work together.
8. 8. In the kit, you should have 2 orange plastic snaps rings attached to a long plastic stem – kind of like a zip tie and two plastic retainer clips. These will replace the top two snaps – the ones closest to the visor lip – on the left cheek Styrofoam backer. Find the microphone. Hold it to the two snaps. You should see how the holes on the bracket on the microphone will line up with these two snaps. Hold the microphone and left cheek Styrofoam backer to the helmet to make 100% sure of the orientation. The microphone arm should be facing inward and the wire for the microphone points to the inside of the helmet. The bracket will fit under the replacement snaps. [Don't worry about how far the microphone sits from the styrofoam. The cheek pad will cover it and you wont feel it] Okay, you’ve got a picture of how this works. Using your scissors, from the back side of the two snaps snip the existing straps on the two snap retainers so you can remove them. Now put the microphone onto the inside of the cheek Styrofoam backer, and push the plastic snap rings through – make sure the snap rings are on the outside and the microphone bracket is next to the cheek Styrofoam backer. Check the orientation of the microphone by holding it to the helmet. If everything looks good, put the retainers on the opposite side of snap ring straps and snug them tight.
9. In the kit there should be two small cloth bags. Take one of the bags and insert the battery pack into it so that the wire is closest to the open side. Fold the bag closed so the Velcro seals it with the wire hanging out the side of the closure. On the right side of the helmet, you will see a recess under the back Styrofoam. Turn the bag with the battery in it so side of the bag with the wire goes towards the back of the helmet and insert it into the recess. Don’t force it – take your time and wiggle it in. If done correctly, the battery should be completely under the back Styrofoam piece with nothing hanging out past the sides. [Maybe I have a different model but the battery is NOT completely covered by the styrofoam. One cell protrudes. BMW might have added an extra cell since James did the write up. Don't worry though, this causes no problem and will be totally covered by the foam and padding] Feed the wire towards the left side of the helmet around the back of the helmet and under the Styrofoam liner. Take care to ensure that the wire is not pinched anywhere and that you don’t lose it behind the Styrofoam otherwise you will have to pull the battery pack out and start again. Use the Popsicle stick or wood chop stick to push the wire down a bit.
10. Take the speakers out of the kit. Examine them to determine which speaker has the longest lead. This is the right speaker. Get the right cheek Styrofoam backer. Hold it on the right side of the helmet to check its orientation. Mentally mark the edge closest to the back of the helmet. Now look at the recess for the speaker. Using your scissors, press down a line in the Styrofoam from the speaker recess to the back edge. Make it deep enough to place the speaker wires – say a 1/8 of an inch. Now remove the backer tape from the right speaker and carefully position it so that the wires will fit into the recess. Press the speaker down so the backing tape will hold it into the recess. Now cut a small piece of duct tape and cover the recess after carefully making sure that the wires are neatly in the trough you pressed into the Styrofoam backer pad. Put the Styrofoam backer pad back in place, carefully putting it behind the black plastic at the front of the helmet and making sure it fits under the milled edges on both sides. [Here you have to gently wiggle it around till it works itself under the milled edge and all seams fit snug] Pull the wire behind the Styrofoam liner to the left side of the helmet. Use the Popsicle stick or wood chop stick to push the wire down a bit. Put one torx screw in place to hold it loosely in place. Now cut a few small pieces of duct tape and use them to ensure these fine wires stay behind the helmet liner at the back.
11. Get the Bluetooth command module – the black piece with 3 large buttons out from the kit. Hold it to the left side of the helmet so that the + button is toward the back of the helmet. Position it so the bottom edge of the command module lines up with the top of the black trim at the base of the helmet. Now move it so that the front edge is right next to the line that separates the sunvisor slider control from the helmet’s black base trim. Check the fit. The curved command module should hug the lines of the helmet like it was made for it – which it was. [One thing missing here: Loosen the other torx screw holding the sun visor slider in place. Gently pry the plastic away and feed the cable from the controller between the plastic and helmet. There is a small slot in the helmet where the cable lies without being pinched by the plastic. Do not tighten the screw again until after you've stuck the controller to the helmet and made sure there is no slack cable remaining]]. If everything looks good memorize the orientation. Take a cotton ball, douse it lightly in alcohol and swab just the area where the control module will fit. Let dry and then remove the sticky tape backing from the control module, and CAREFULLY line it up and press it into place. Make sure you don’t trap the ribbon cable under the tape.
12. Now get the left Styrofoam backer and using the same logic in step 10, press a trough for the left speaker wire going from the speaker recess to the back of the helmet. Remove the backer tape on the left speaker and press it into place in the left speaker recess after ensuring that the wires will fit into the trough. Cut a small piece of duct tape and place over the trough to secure the wires. Don’t put the Styrofoam backer in place yet.
13. This next part is a bit tricky and requires some coordination [He wasn't kidding]. Get the circuit board from the kit and the power charging – it has a loop on it and a rubber cap on its end. Plug each wire into the appropriate socket. There is only one possible place to put each wire and only one way to orient them. If they don’t EASILY go in, don’t force them – you are doing something wrong. Check that you have plugged in the power cable, the single (twinned) cable to the speakers, the microphone cable, and the ribbon cable for the control module. Place the circuit board carefully into the second cloth bag so the wires face the opening. Fold the flap closed and press the Velcro seal. Now carefully place the circuit board and back in the recess in the left side of the helmet. DON’T FORCE ANYTHING and don’t bend the board or pull on the wires. When in, check to make sure you haven’t pinched any wires. Now carefully put the left Styrofoam backer piece back in place and loosely secure it with one torx screw. Double check everything to make sure no wires are pinched.
14. Feed the power cord from the left side of the helmet around the back under the Styrofoam liner to the right side of the helmet . When you get to the right loop strap, feed this through the bracket on the power cable. This prevents you from accidentally pulling on the circuit board. Continue feeding the cable under the liner until you get to the right cheek pad.
15. Check all fitments and power on the Bluetooth. Listen for the BMW start up message. Confirm that the lights come on as detailed in the owner’s manual. Plug it in temporarily to the wall power adapter to confirm the power cord is hooked up. If everything checks, unplug the power wall adapter from the power cable. Cut a small piece of black tape and put it over the ribbon cable where it goes along the left hand trim [Not needed if you followed my advice to rout it under the plastic]. This stops the cable from accidentally being pulled. Now put back in the remaining 4 torx screws and snug up all 6 of them [My advice is to put them in loosely and only tighten them up after you've put the neck padding/sleeve back in]. Power off the Bluetooth by holding down the power button for a few seconds.
16. Put the cheek pads back in place feeding the loop strap through the sleeve first. This is where either a pair of very long needle nose pliers or some wire will come in handy [Or thin cable ties.  Makes it easy to pull loop straps through the sleeve]. Feed the chin strap through the loop strap. Button the cheek pads down into their sockets.
17. Put the liner back in by first putting the front under the 3 tabs and then snapping the back into place.
18. Replace the visor by lining it up with the slots and pushing it backwards until the tab engages.
19. Put the helmet on to confirm fit. Hold down the power button to test sound. Read the owner’s manual to learn how to pair the helmet with your Bluetooth devices.

So there you have it. Took me about 3 hours but now I have ‘tunes on my ride Oh, and my GPS can now tell me where to go. Sort of like a back seat driver.